FJ Cruisers of Northern California
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buy the best you can afford.
If it was me I would get a Warn m8000...Warn is having a rebate special right now up to $150 rebate and $100 rebate for the M8000 or v8000..Plus Warn has the lifetime warranty...
Also for the price you can't go wrong with the Engo 9000s or 10000s...Had really good reviews..check out the review on this engo 9000...It was one of the only ones that survived the torcher test and went again a $1500 warn...
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/129-1107-massive-multi-winch-shoo...
I'd be interested in arguments for synthetic vs. steel too ... and opinions on the importance of dual-battery when running a winch. I'm sure there's lots of opinion on this in the blue room (etc.), but I haven't gone looking there yet...
So the pro's and con's of steel over synthetic include these points:
Steel is heavier by at least 3:1.
Steel is cheaper by 3:1
Steel wont care too much about hot undercarriage parts you might have to get around to attach to the stuck vehicle.
Steel wont tear on jagged rocks or tree limb/branch parts.
Steel needs a damper bag placed over it in case it snaps to stop whip lash, but I would make the case that is a good idea on synthetic also especially if your nearing its pull limit.
Steel is not affected by UV rays and I know the claims are the same for synthetic, but I would like to fully cover a synthetic rope to be sure.
Steel needs to be carefully rewound back on the drum under some load when rewinding because its possible to pinch the galvanized wire when under a load and that can cause spilt cables.
On batteries, you should still run the engine so the alternator can provide the load even with two batteries.
Personally from 3 self recoveries, I am happy with my Smittybilt XRC8 with steel line and smittybilt snatch-blocks and a single battery.
Steve.
You don't need a dual battery for running a winch. I have a dual battery setup, but I attach the winch to my main battery. Always run the engine while using the winch, like Steve Hope mentioned.
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