FJ Cruisers of Northern California

Skid plates and...questions

Hi guys, doing some research here into skid plates for my 2012 TT.

I see Boztec have a nice diff skid for $420 inc tax p/u in Alameda. But no other plates.

Bud Built in North Carolina have 3/16 steel plates for everything, 5 piece set for $900 plus a diff skid for an additional $200, all this plus motor freight, probably $100+?

Ricochet in Salt Lake City have full skids in 1/4 aluminum for $900 plus an anodizing fee for color.Motor freight might be little less than for steel and closer to me too?

Ricochet also have a cool 3/16 aluminum air dam plate for $220 that fits a variety of lights.

So my question's are;, Who has experience with any of these products? do they fit well? do they hold up well? If you were to buy them again would you? If the aluminum skids are 6061 T6 they should be strong enough? right?

I dont want to "cheap-out" on my purchase, I believe 95% of the time you get what you pay for, but I would like input from anyone who has installed, or had these products installed on their FJ , to give an honest assessement.

Thanks guys, and see you on the trail.

Steve Hope.

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Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Overlander36 on October 21, 2012 at 5:32pm

Ricochet vs Bud Builts is not just motor freight but the weight you are hanging off your fj - something to think about. I have the Ricochets because I'm not a "hard core" rock crawler, but I like the protection that they offer. If I do something that really screws up a plate or two, I'm prepared to replace. I did my research on dif skids and went with the boztec hand down.

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Permalink Reply by Steve Hope on October 21, 2012 at 5:40pm

Thanks, that is good info. Weight is not only an issue for the vehicle, but also for me as I do my own oil/filter changes and will have to remove these suckers every 10K!! Good advice Overlander.

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Permalink Reply by NyNomad on October 21, 2012 at 6:19pm

i purchased the Man-A-Fre Front Engine skid. unlike the others (which i'm not against by any means!) you get both a front and engine skid in one. unlike there others, the front and engine skids are two separate pieces that have to be purchased separately. ricochet's heavy duty offers this as well. each has it's own pros and cons. aluminum is lighter and doesn't rust. some require plate removal for oil changes.

a year ago after beating the crap out of my stock skids i originally bought a 3piece ricochet before they had and HD version. after finding out the non-HD's required the use of the factory skid plates i sent them back. i'm the reason why they now advertise their non HD skids require the use of the factory one.

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Permalink Reply by NyNomad on October 21, 2012 at 6:49pm

budbuilt i believe offers the most protection up front:

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/1846587-post258.html

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Permalink Reply by Overlander36 on October 21, 2012 at 6:56pm

The one HUGE disadvantage the ricochets have for the 2010 and on, is you have to drop the skid to do the oil change. The Bud Builts have a hatch that allows access to the oil filter - very nice.

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Permalink Reply by Steve Hope on October 21, 2012 at 7:52pm

I would take my plate into work and cut an access and recess a flush cover with flat head screws for filter removal purposes. Liking the Ricochet's the more I read. Leaning that way. Have the bash plate anodized red to match the truck and black for all the other plates.

Steve.

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Permalink Reply by Overlander36 on October 21, 2012 at 7:56pm

If you do fab an access hatch, please take pictures - I need one too. The way it is now is a pita.

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Permalink Reply by Steve Hope on October 21, 2012 at 8:04pm

k, will do that, probably hole-saw a nice 4 inch round hole and epoxy in a shoulder cut on the plasma table or router table, then add a 4inch round plate held with several 10-32 flat head screws. Not planning on doing this until first of the year though. First the Boztec diff skid, then holidays, then plates. But I will post when it gets done. Thanks for info.

Steve.

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Permalink Reply by NyNomad on October 21, 2012 at 8:12pm

if you use a K&N oil filter you don't have to cut the access hole too big and the filter can be installed and removed with a ratchet, 1in socket and an extension. no hands required

http://www.kn-performance-filters.com/images/OilFiltersWrenchL.jpg

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Permalink Reply by Steve Hope on October 22, 2012 at 4:28pm

How does that work with the cartridge set-up housing?

Another option would be to have a machine shop make parts and high pressure hoses and re-route the filter to be remote, and a spin-on to boot.

Steve.

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Permalink Reply by UlySi on October 22, 2012 at 5:30pm

To relocate the filter would be best,,but not cost efficient . I went with the bud builds cause I like to challenge my rig. I say there are other options out there like the man a frees or allpros.