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Will I be able to fit 35's with a 3" OME if I do a 1" body lift?

Will I be able to fit with just the OME?

Thanks!

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short answer: maybe but 34's would be better for the transmission and gears

gimme a call if you want to get it done

What would it run me total for you to do it?

:)

BTW, I am a manual, does that matter for the gears issue?

It will fit but you will have rubbing issues that you would need to address. As well as re-gearing.

So i do have to re-gear with a manual? You know I have different gear ratios than you auto guys? 

Just making sure. :)

I believe the manual has a 3.91 compared to a auto, which has 3.73. Running 35' tires, I think most run either 4.88 or 4.56. You don't have to re-gear but without it you will not have any power and get horrible gas mileage. You would probably need a BMC as well. Correct me if any of my information is incorrect.

the BMC will be necessary and 4:88 would be the way to go if you wanna run 35's the biggest cost will be the parts, if you are serious about doing this call me up and we can start chasing down the parts and get your build started

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you will need aggressive BMC and  very careful alignment.  How much of this you need is greatly dependent on how wide you rims are.  If you are running 4.5" back spacing you will need aftermarket UCAs if you don't already have them or the inside of the tire will rub on it at full lock.  I didn't like how stuffed the tires looked on a 4.5" BS rim so I also run 1.25" spidertrax.  This forced me to be reallllly aggressive with the BMC including pinchweld flattening.  without the spidertrax you will have not have to be so aggressive.  Also, I had to do a bump stop extension in the rear.  I dropped them by 1.5" to prevent rubbing in the rear when fully stuffed.  the tires will rub the back of the wheel well and you will have to do a little work there as well.  Just expect to get horrible gas mileage.  Gears will help, but dont expect to it to make a huge difference.

Yes, you can fit 35"s.  Talk to Resty, C4B for more info.  4.88 gears are too tall IMO.  You;'ll have high RPMs at freeway speeds.  I'd suggest 4.56.  BMC, hammering pinchwelds, and dropping bump stops are all things you'll need to do to make it work offroad.  If you don't regear now, you'll have to soon after if you wheel it.  They will be more than likely to bust.  You'll be shiffting between gears on the freeway also if you don't regear.

Another thing to note, there are a lot of people, like C4B, that bust 4.56/4.88 R&Ps running 35"s.  The stock e-locker rear diff is weak and allows some unwanted deflection.  C4B has busted a handful of sets because of this.  We thought it might be installation error, but ruled that out.  One way to get around this is to run an ARB locker and ditch the e-locker.  Or just be easy on the skinny pedal.

Wow. Thanks guys. So with all this information, I am currently running 285/70's and might change to 33/12.50/18

I shouldn't have to regear for either of those, correct?

 There is not much difference in size there, so why the change? I run 285/75/16 KM2's and don't feel there is any need to re-gear. Also less wheel and more tire is better for wheeling, at least in my opinion. This page has a good tire size calculator. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tirecalc.php .

Great calculator! Thanks GHOST! So I have 3.91's. Seems like even with the stock 265's it would be beneficial to go up to 4.11, according to the calculator.

The 33 is a little fatter, and I am trying to balance around town looks with occasional trails. 18's look a little better. Haven't decided yet. :)

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