NorCal FJs

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I apologize for all the posts in advance :-P...

This looked like a unique way to get the job done...anybody have any experience going this route:



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Front lower ball joint attachment x Steering knuckle 118 - ft lbs for the FJ
I would say that in a pinch sure but the spring compressor (as dangerous as they are) is the safer route! the potential for EFFIN something up (like the wheel studs, or ball joint) is WAY higher!!!!
I still haven't decided which approach i'm going to take :-P I'm donig it solo so i'm tempted to go for this route listed above...looks like it could be a time saver.
X2 maybe X4 to what Cowboy's comment said...
interesting comments .... the blue room was posting that it was ingenious! I guess i go with the standard spring compressor method...
Why a spring compressor to r&r from vehicle? That sounds goofy to me, & dangerous.
Remove the UCA to frame bolts, much easier.
More detail on this? I'm not following..
The upper control arm is held on by one long bolt where it attaches to the frame. If you disconnect the UCA you can move the spindle down and out of the way which allows you to lift shocks in/out. If you try to drop them down you have the tie rod in the way. I have C4B to thank for this tip. Last front suspension swap took about 45 minutes doing it this way.

disconnect and remove battery (this allows space to remove UCA bolt)
jack up front end and secure w/ jack stands, remove wheels
remove sway bar--disconnect link assembly from the steering knuckle
support lower control arm with floor jack
remove front shock absorber with coil spring lower bolt and top three nuts
remove upper control arm long bolt, secure UCA with bailing wire to prevent damage to sensor wires
lift front shock absorber with coil spring out

Reassembly is pretty much the reverse. You'll want to get the shock in place before reinstalling the UCA. It helps to have someone hold the UCA when you go to put the long bolt/UCA back together, but I have done it solo. Torque all nuts/bolts to specs.

refer to the attached pdfs for more details
Attachments:
I've done that way before. I was with a couple of the guys from the 120 and the hardest part of doing it was aligning the lower bolt. It was pretty difficult because you would have to be under the whole lower arm to see where you are going, but then again, going the route of removing the upper control arm long bolt is a hassle as well. The only other option is to remove the upper control arm ball joint, which is also a pain in the butt.
That's how I did mine.
I did a lift kit for Chris&Heather last night and instead of using the spring compressor to remove the stock spring I un-bolted the top plate in place then removed the two lower ball joint bolts, pushed down on the lower control arm with a long pry bar, and the pulled the shock and spring out real quick, still needed the compressor to reassemble the new springs but it saved me two steps of playing around with compressors =)

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