NorCal FJs

FJ Cruisers of Northern California

Does anyone have a problem when using the power outlet in the back of our Fj's, with it tripping?  I've tried to plug in a small vacuum and a small air compressor, (not at the same time), and the outlet trips very quickly, like within 5 seconds.  These are small items, not big ones, so I know the initial draw isn't that high.  I'm wondering if the previous owner put the wrong size fuse in for it.  I want to be able to use that outlet to plug in my air compressor when I need to reinflate my tires after airing down.  Don't ask what the initial draw is as I don't know, but as I mentioned, its a small compressor and I don't think it should cause the plug to trip.  I do have the vehicle running too when I'm trying this.  Any suggestions?  Does anyone know the size fuse that should be in there for that and what the fuse location is?  I didn't get an owners manual when I bought the fj. 

Any help is greatly appreciated. 

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From Toyota:

///The maximum capacity is 120V AC/100W when following, the shift lever is moved to any positions other than P N, the shift lever is in P N, the shift lever is in N and the clutch pedal not depressed.

The indicator light changes according maximum available capacity, when the power outlet operation, the sound of the cooling fan may be heard from the right side luggage, the maximum capacity of the power supply may decrease to below the standard, or may be cut off completely, even when vehicle stationary.

The protection circuit may be activated to cut the power supply any, ● The engine is started with the power outlet main switch on, ● Use of electrical appliances exceeding maximum capacity, a sound may be heard when the protection circuit activated.///

 

A motor type load usually has in-rush current and needs a slo-blow fuse. For example a 0.25HP (186watt) compressor would need a 10A slo-blow fuse, and that is a low power compressor.

A 12Vdc compressor with clamps for the battery usually has an inline 40A fuse or higher. (480watt)

Looking at the power formulas; I ( in amps ) = Power ( in watts) divide by Volts .  so, I=P/V

We know we have 120V and a 400w circuit that would equal 3.3A. When it is down to 120V and a 100w circuit that would equal 0.83A  

From the above average small compressor of 1/4HP that would draw 1.55A at 120V without in-rush current.

I think your vacuum and compressor have higher inrush current levels than you are aware. Try using 12Vdc products clamped to the battery with an inline fuse and the engine running in order to get power from the alternator. 

I switched from this type of air-up technique to using CO2 with much faster results. 

The 120V outlet, I feel, is for charging phones, pads and laptops. Hope this helps, cheers.

Steve.

Thanks for the detailed explanation.  It does help me understand a bit.  I tried a lower draw compressor this weekend and it worked great, never cut off.  Of course took a bit of time to air up all the tires, but it worked.  I would love to have a cO2 system.  Too expensive for me though.  Maybe someday.

For the price of a slow but capable 12Vdc air compressor you can get a 15lb CO2 tank, regulator and hose, about $180.Availlable at Amazon.

Fill it at your local fire extinguisher company for about $20 and you can air up fully from 16lbs to 45lbs on the trail up to 20 tires, or your vehicle 5 times. Takes about 30 seconds per tire. The tank releases CO2 at 600lbs so with a regulator even your 20th tire still only takes 30 seconds to air up. Pretty cheap really and the savings is you don't have to keep the engine running to support the alternator powering the compressor. My compressor lives on my shelf in the garage now.

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