NorCal FJs

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Hi guys,

 

My FJ did not come with A-trac (or e-locker). Have AT, am thinking of buying the Detrioit Truetrac for the front (already got a Lockright in the back as it was open diff...).

Any recommendations for the front? Is the Detroit LSD (or something else perhaps?) worth it?

Thanks in advance for the always great feedback.

J

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Hey Joakim, I think all FJC's were wired for A-trac since it runs off the ABS system. People were buying A-trac switch online and installing them, check the link below. 

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/how-technical-articles/44945-...

From what I am told it will only work if you already have the e-locker, which I dont...(also, it will only work in 4low unless you do the hack....). However, If i remove the plastic button where the a-trac is on the models that come with it, I do find the wiring is there, so on my model, will it be as easy as just buying/installing the a-track button? anybody?

Well, I had not heard about requiring the e-locker for A-trac to work since mine had both. I did find a few threads on e-locker needing A-trac this afternoon so that is a bummer if true. 

 

Have not heard of many running the Detroit Truetrac or LSD in an FJC so sorry I cannot help there. Personally, if I were going to add lockers to both front and rear I'd go with ARB air lockers.

You're limited to the Detroit Truetrac and ARB air locker. The Detroit Truetrac is a great LSD with a long history of being reliable, yet transparent for daily driving.  More reading here:

http://www.offroaders.com/reviewbox/showproduct.php?product=252

 

I'd choose the Detroit over A-trac all day long if given a choice. The A-trac works well, but it does put added wear on the brakes.  If I were dishing out the money to install a Truetrac, I'd get ARB lockers front and rear.  Lockers are superior in crawling situations, however, the Truetrac would still be a solid choice, and probably fare better in all other areas other that didn't result in lifting a tire off the gorund. 

 

I'd install an ARB in the rear axle, by the way.  The non-e-locker rear end housing is considered stronger than the e-locker rear end housing, and the ARB is considered much stronger than the e-locker.  I wouldn't go around swapping axles for a non e-locker axle, but if you already have one, why not take advantage of it?

I think I would vote for the ARBs as well. My only concern with going something like the an LSD up front is that your running it on the puny little front axles. 

 

I'm not sure how much torque they are going to transfer around - i don't think its enough to worry about my scenario below-... but there is always a possibility of busting up one of those axles. The scenario I see is one where you don't really need a LSD but you gun it trying to get out of a crappy situation and then pop! The LSD xferred too much torque and now your IFS is truely independent...ie on one wheel :-)

 

With the ARB you get the ability to select- so for 99% of your driving you don't use them, but for that 1% (and i'm all for spending money on that 1% btw :-)) when you actually need to lock it up front - you know its locked and you know you need to be careful. 

 

Just a thought - If you do get the LSD up front though be sure and report back - i would be curious to see how it works out!

Im not a big fan of the detroit.  I am ARB all the way.  Its the strongest one out there.  I would save your money for the ARB.   I try not to use my front locker when wheeling..... only on certain obstacles the really require it after attempting the obstacle while open.  That is why I am a big fan of the selectable.  Ive seen Detroits grenade.  You get some wheel hop and then it locks and you hit and then POP!!!! Not a big fan.  Keep Your rear Elocker ( if you have one) or you can upgrade to ARB in the rear and stick one in the front.  As far as the Atrac go's.  I have 2 ATRAC switches for sale for cheap if u are interested.

ARB is the only way to go, you can turn off. 

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